Indoor Plant Light Requirements Chart: Foot-Candles, Lux & Placement for 30 Houseplants
This indoor plant light requirements chart matches 30 common houseplants to a light tier, a foot-candle range, and a realistic spot near your windows. For this chart, houseplants are grouped into three practical light bands: low-light plants at 50–250 foot-candles (fc), medium-light plants at 250–1,000 fc, and high-light plants at 1,000 fc or more. These are reference ranges, not universal species-specific requirements. The tiers are broad, and some plants may fit near the overlap between bands. Find your plant below, then compare your spot with the range.
Important: A foot-candle or lux reading shows light intensity at a particular moment. It does not show how much light a plant receives across the entire day. Light duration, season, window exposure, and other conditions also affect plant growth.
Not sure what your room measures? Start with how to measure light for indoor plants, then come back to match the reading to a plant.
How to read this indoor plant light requirements chart
Plants are grouped by light tier rather than listed alphabetically, so you can scan for the band that matches your home. Each tier uses the same foot-candle and lux range for consistency, and each plant row explains what to expect within that band. If a plant seems close to two tiers, use the stronger light band as the better starting point.
| Light tier | Foot-candles (fc) | Approx. lux | What it usually looks like |
| Low | 50–250 fc | 540–2,690 lux | Several feet from a window, or near a north-facing window, depending on the window, season, and outdoor obstructions |
| Medium | 250–1,000 fc | 2,690–10,760 lux | Near an east window, or a few feet back from a bright south or west window, depending on the season, window, and outdoor conditions. |
| High | 1,000+ fc | 10,760+ lux | At or very close to a bright south or west window, often with several hours of strong light. |
To convert, 1 foot-candle equals about 10.764 lux. Light below about 50 fc generally will not sustain plant life for long.
Why do different sources give different light numbers?
Terms like “low,” “medium,” and “high” are generalizations, not scientific categories, and extension services draw the lines differently. UF/IFAS lists 25–100 fc as low light. Mississippi State Extension describes low light as 50–500 fc. University of Missouri Extension puts low light at 50–250 fc.
This chart uses one consistent set of tiers (low 50–250, medium 250–1,000, high 1,000+) so the numbers match across the site. Treat them as reference bands, not hard cutoffs. Plants generally grow better in the upper part of their band, even the so-called low-light ones. If your reading falls near a transition, start with the higher-light tier. For what “bright indirect light” means in practice, see what is bright indirect light.
What this chart does not claim
The extension sources cited here do not provide an exact foot-candle threshold for every species and cultivar. Each plant here is placed in the practical tier that best fits the available extension guidance. Cultivar, variegation, acclimation, season, and latitude can all shift a plant’s needs, so use the chart to choose a starting spot and let the plant’s growth confirm it. If a plant appears between tiers, begin with the brighter option. Stretched stems, unusually small new leaves, or leaning toward the window can indicate that the plant needs more light.
Low light plants (50–250 fc)
These plants tolerate dimmer rooms, but “low light” does not mean no light. Growth will be slower here, and it improves toward the upper end of the band.
| Plant | What to know | Typical placement |
| Snake plant | Tolerates the dim end of the tier but grows slowest there. Variegated types need more light to keep their markings. | A few feet from any window, or near a north window |
| ZZ plant | Very tolerant of dim rooms. Growth stays slow and compact in low light. | Several feet from a window, or near a north window |
| Cast iron plant | One of the most shade-tolerant houseplants. Direct sun can scorch its leaves. | Back from an east or north window |
| Pothos | Survives in low light but grows fuller and holds variegation better toward the top of the band. Pale or marbled types need more light than solid green ones. | Within a few feet of an east or north window |
| Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema) | Dark green types tolerate lower light than silver or pink varieties, which need brighter spots to keep their color. | A few feet from an east window, or near a north window |
| Heartleaf philodendron | Tolerates low light but turns leggy, with long gaps between leaves, if it’s too dim. | Within a few feet of a north or east window |
| Peace lily | Survives low light but usually flowers only with brighter, indirect light. Direct sun scorches the leaves. | A few feet from an east window, or near a north window |
| Parlor palm | Low to medium light. Keep it out of direct sun. | Near an east or north window |
Medium light plants (250–1,000 fc)
This is the most forgiving band for most homes. These plants want steady, bright but indirect light, usually near an east window or set back from a stronger south or west one.
| Plant | What to know | Typical placement |
| Spider plant | Handles medium to bright indirect light. Variegated types hold their stripes better in brighter spots, and direct sun can scorch the tips. | Near an east window, or back from a south or west window |
| Monstera deliciosa | Grows best in medium to bright indirect light. In dim spots, leaves stay small and are less likely to split. | Near an east window, or a few feet back from a south or west window |
| Boston fern | Prefers bright, indirect light and steady humidity. Direct sun dries and browns the fronds. | Near an east window, out of direct sun |
| Prayer plant and Calathea | Medium, indirect light. Direct sun fades and burns the leaf patterns. | A few feet from an east window, or back from a south window |
| Pilea peperomioides | Medium to bright indirect light. It leans toward the window, so rotate it regularly. | Near an east window |
| Peperomia | Medium light for most types. Thick-leaved varieties tolerate somewhat less. | Near an east window, or back from a south or west window |
| Dieffenbachia | Medium light, tolerates the low end of the band. Direct sun scorches the leaves. | A few feet from an east or west window |
| Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) | Medium to bright light, often doing best at the upper end of the band. Dark types usually tolerate less light than variegated ones. | Near an east window, or a few feet from a south or west window |
| Moth orchid | Medium, bright indirect light. Direct sun burns the leaves, and dim light often means no reblooming. | At an east window, or filtered through a sheer curtain |
| Hoya | Tolerates lower light, but medium to bright light generally gives better growth, and flowering usually benefits from brighter conditions | Near an east window, or a few feet from a south or west window |
| Money tree (Pachira aquatica) | Medium to bright indirect light. It sulks and drops leaves if the light changes suddenly. | Near an east window, or back from a south or west window |
| Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) | Low to medium light. Strong direct sun can burn the leaves. | A few feet back from an east or west window |
| Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata) | Low to medium light. Colorful or tri-color types fade in dim spots. | A few feet back from an east or west window |
High light plants (1,000+ fc)
These plants generally perform best in brighter indoor conditions and may need your brightest available spot. In dim rooms, they may stretch, lose color, or grow poorly.
| Plant | What to know | Typical placement |
| Jade plant | Needs strong light for compact growth, and stretches in dim spots. Acclimate it gradually to direct sun. | At or near a south or west window |
| Aloe vera | Needs a very bright spot. In low light, the leaves thin out and lean. | At a south or west window |
| Fiddle leaf fig | Wants bright, indirect light and consistent placement. Low light can contribute to leaf drop, and sudden changes in conditions can cause stress. | Near a bright east or west window, or a south window with filtered light |
| Croton | Needs strong light for vivid leaf color, which fades in dim spots. | At a south or west window |
| Bird of paradise | Needs strong light, ideally with some direct sun, for best growth. | At a south or west window |
| Ponytail palm | Bright light, and it tolerates direct sun. | At a south or west window |
| Cacti (desert types) | Need the brightest light you have. Low light makes them stretch and weaken. | At a south or west window |
| Meyer lemon tree | Needs very bright light and often a grow light in winter. | At a south window, supplemented with a grow light if needed |
| African violet | Too much direct sun can damage the leaves | At or near an east window, or another bright location |
Window placement cheat sheet
Direction matters, but distance matters just as much. Extension guidance notes that light can drop from around 1,000 fc at the glass to roughly 100 fc within a few feet. This means a plant a short distance back from the glass can receive dramatically less light than one on the sill.
| Window direction (Northern Hemisphere) | Typical light | Tiers that fit |
| South | Strongest and longest-lasting light | High-light plants at the glass, medium-light plants a few feet back |
| West | Strong afternoon sun, with extra heat | High-light plants at the glass, medium-light plants with a sheer curtain |
| East | Gentle morning sun, then indirect light | Medium-light plants at the glass, low-light plants a little farther back |
| North | Lowest, steadiest light | Low-light plants near the glass, medium-light plants only very close |
In the Southern Hemisphere, north- and south-facing windows swap roles. For plant lists by window, see north-facing window plants and south-facing window plants.
How do you check your spot against this chart?
- Measure at leaf level. Take readings where the plant’s leaves will actually sit, preferably at more than one time of day so you can see how the light changes. A phone light-meter app can provide a useful approximation, but accuracy varies by device and app. For more reliable measurements, use a dedicated digital light meter. The light meter and calculator tools can help you interpret the reading.
- Match the reading to a tier. Readings from 50–250 fc are low, 250–1,000 fc are medium, and 1,000+ fc are high. Readings below about 50 fc are extremely low and may not sustain most plants for long.
- Choose the plant, or move it. Pick a plant from the matching table, or move your existing plant closer to or farther from the window.
- Re-check in winter. Natural light weakens in winter, so a spot that worked in summer may drop a tier.
What if your light doesn’t match your plant?
If the spot is too dim, move the plant closer to the window, clean the glass, or add a grow light. In a genuinely windowless room, supplemental grow lighting is the reliable way to provide enough light for sustained plant growth.
If the spot is too bright, pull the plant back from the glass or filter the light with a sheer curtain. Bleached or crispy patches can indicate too much light or heat, especially when the damage is on the side of the plant facing the window. For a full symptom guide, see how much light do indoor plants need.
Browse more in the Light & Grow Lights hub. If you share your home with pets, check plant safety in the Safety Hub before choosing.